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Handmade Passion

Doria 1905 it’s a line of hats resulting from tradition, craftsmanship and quality: an Italian brand deeply rooted in fashion design tradition of ‘fatto a mano’ (handmade production).

A timeless classically inspired product, enacting a new way to be modern.
Flat caps, trilbies, cloches, berets, caps, fedoras: these are the expressions of a natural, polished style, an accessible, modern elegance.

The greatest care and attention are devoted to material selection, to detail finishing, respecting ‘made in Italy’ history and tradition, keeping those manufacturing, passed down from generation to generation, unchanged, yet innovating them with advanced techniques.

Doria1905 offers a classic hat restyling, made with humour and rigour, inspired by a refined and linear imagination.
PRODUCTION

The path that brings to the making of a DORIA1905 hat counts about 20 steps, which can be summarized in stages.

According to product type, different stages of manufacturing are involved. Here is outlined each stage by its kind.

FABRIC:
1.CUTTING: each peace of fabric is thoroughly examined, steamed, fused, then placed on the cutting surface along with the pattern jigs.
Each hat and cap receives a bias trimming, according to tradition, giving the item a perfect and smooth wearability.
Tartan is trimmed by a characteristic technique aimed to always make the square perfectly turn to eachother, forming an interlaced design.
Hide, fur and leather instead are trimmed one at the time.

2.SEWING: the pieces are assembled through different stages, punctuated by pressing phases.

3.MEDIUMPRESSING: this happens before lining is applied.

4.TRIMMING: every external decoration is applied, along with belt, adornments, and any specific kind of intervention.

5.LAST PRESSING: pressing on wooden or aluminiun frames gives the headgear its final shape while refining the sewing.

6.DRYING: during this hours-long stage the hat is placed on micro-netting based shelves, to completely evaporate any fabric soaking steam and allow the hat to perfectly mantain shape and size.

7.PACKAGING: each item is carefully packed, adequately filled with a tissue paper padding to preserve the shape. Only as it leaves the workshop a plastic bell is put over the headgear as a form of protection, as a foam band protects the hat’s belt.

FELT and STRAW:
1.STEAMING: straw and felt cones first undergo an initial handmade smoothening stage, by a device known as “Sfumosa”, or Steam Machine, that through a steam jet smoothens the material to pliability, apt to the following process.

2.FIRST BLOCKING: cones are given a first generic shape, for a fitting height and circumference, and to obtain the brim width.
First blocking may happen in two distinct ways, according to the meant output.
In millinery first blocking is handmade on wood blocks; on hats a hemp string is used, to make the cone shrink its circumference around the headline. This process, carried out by the use of steam, is traditionally known as “Strangolatura” or Chocking.
In traditional output, first blocking happens on metal blocks put in a specific heatening press.

3.CROPPING: the brim of the cone is carefully cropped to reach the meant width.

4.TRIMMING: every external decoration is applied, along with belt, adornments, and any specific intervention.

5.STIFFENING: for Straw, the stiffening process happens through the use of natural and nontoxic products, applied on the hat by immersion or spraying, where only some specific part of the item may present the need of stiffening.
In traditional millinery felt doesn’t undergo a stiffening process, to mantain its pleasant smoothness. On particular occasion, for instance manufacturing millinery hats, fascinators or very particular items, a stiffening varnish is only applied to key points of the headgear.

6.INNER TRIMMING: every internal decoration is applied, such as morocco leather, lining or badges if needed.

7.SECOND BLOCKING: the hat is now ready to get its final shape by a second blocking, applied as said, in two different ways according to the kind of output.

8.OUTER TRIMMING: every external decoration is applied, along with belt, adornments, and any specific intervention.

9.FINAL STEAMING (only felt): the hat/cap goes again through the “Sfumosa” or Steam Machine, to both perfecting the final output and remove any hemp string or Blocking Machine mark.

10.DRYING: during this hours-long stage the hat is placed on micro-netting based shelves, to completely evaporate any fabric soaking steam and allow the hat to perfectly mantain shape and size.

11.PACKAGING: each item is carefully packed, adequately filled with tissue paper padding to preserve the shape. Only as it leaves the workshop a plastic bell is put over the headgear as protection, as a foam band protects the hat’s belt.

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The DORIA brand was born in Maglie (Lecce) in 1905 by a small tailoring workshop in the city center…